Multiple .015-inch shims are provided with the kit to allow for differing tolerances in the spindle and make it possible to have ideal alignment with the caliper on the rotor. We have to get it all assembled to know for sure, though. Once the number of shims is determined, red thread locker is recommended.
This is the radial mount bracket that will hold the six-piston caliper in place. Using this mounting solution allows for easy adaption of the caliper to multiple spindle designs.
To mount the rotor, Wilwood conversion kits for vintage spindle use a forged aluminum hub. The bearings are included, but will need to be packed with high-temperature disc brake bearing grease, and installed. They do not get pressed in, but we did use the press to make installing the seal a little easier. A mallet will also work just fine.
The hub then installs directly on the spindle and is lightly secured using a spindle washer and the OEM spindle nut. The nut should be tightened per OEM specifications, and secured with a new cotter pin.
Wilwood's lightweight two-piece rotors require assembling the outer discs to the rotor hat with an alternating sequence on the bolts. Red Loctite 271 is applied to the threads, and they are torqued to 155 in-lb. For added safety, especially in competition use, the bolts can be wired using standard 0.032-inch diameter stainless steel safety wire.
Wilwood's cool e-coat not only keeps the rotor from rusting before use, it keeps all the non-braking surfaces corrosion-free even after use! The hat/rotor assembly slides in only one way since the small countersunk holes in the hat must line up with the small threaded holes in the hub. Three flat-head screws install through the small holes in the hat, and get torqued to 85 in-lb.
Most Mustangs will use all three alignment shims to get the correct centering of the caliper, and our '68 was no exception. They may look the same, but there are distinct right- and left-hand calipers that must be mounted in a specific direction. The calipers must be mounted so the largest of the three pistons are at the rotor exit end of the caliper, in relation to the direction of rotor rotation.
They are technically an option, but we say always replace your flexible brake lines with new ones when upgrading a vintage car. The stock rubber ones are guaranteed to be dry and prone to cracking. These braided ones from Wilwood will not only last for many years, but the covering keeps them safe from abrasion.
We even threw on a new stock-style manual master cylinder when we first drug out our '68 Mustang for the 2013 paint and body special, so we had full pedal pressure for baseline testing. It's inappropriately sized for what we have in mind, so it'll be swapped as well.
In its place will be one of Wilwood's aluminum tandem master cylinders. These work great on manual or power brakes, and will fit just about any vintage car, though we have a Mustang-specific pedal rod kit. Bench bleeding is a necessity, and each master cylinder includes a pre-plumbed kit. We'll be using Wilwood's EXP 600 Plus high-temp racing brake fluid.
Our master cylinder kit included a new adjustable proportioning valve to replace the original distribution block. Controlling the front-to-rear pressure bias will be extra critical since we'll still have the factory drums on the rear for now. The brake pressure sensor on the end will be removed and plugged since Mustangs have one under the dash.
This mounting bracket makes life simple for getting the proportioning valve in place. The plumbing, however, will require a bit of reworking. Using a flaring tool, Wilwood was able to reuse most of the original lines since they were in good shape. Ideally, this would be a good time to replace all of them.
Besides getting the most out of our new brakes, the Wilwood master cylinder is just classy looking! The master is available in .875-, 1-, and 1.125-inch bores. Early Mustangs will likely use a .875-inch bore, but talk with a Wilwood tech expert about your parts and plans to be sure.
Now we still have the vintage Shelby look of our Vintage Wheels Works V50 wheels, but with modern stopping power. Paired with the 200 treadwear Nitto NT05, we should have a very potent braking package even with the stock rear drums.
The result? A 135.3-foot 60-0! That's 75 feet sooner than previous. We're pretty sure it can do better since the very worn-out suspension nose-dived so hard under threshold braking that it felt like we were doing a stoppie. With only the lap belts currently installed, we had to fight to keep ourselves off the steering wheel against the 1g peak and .9g average. These numbers will only improve as we upgrade our suspension and rear brakes.