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 After cutting the stud and...  After cutting the stud and grinding it flat again, a curved hammer was used with a general-purpose dolly on the inside of the trunk to work the entire area level.  As seen from the inside of...  As seen from the inside of the trunk, the general-purpose dolly was used with a combination of “hammer on” and “hammer off” techniques to arrive at a near perfect level. Note that at this point, very little force is actually being used with the hammer.  One last pass with the grinder...  One last pass with the grinder (36-grit disc) ensures that the affected and surrounding area is completely level.  Once several dents in a given...  Once several dents in a given area have been corrected—in our case the left quarter-panel—a small coat of polyester glaze can be skimmed on top of the repaired dents. Once the hardener is added, you will need to work quickly.  Fast-forward about four months,...  Fast-forward about four months, after the sheetmetal has been straightened, body filler skim coated, sanded, panels gapped, sealer and primer laid on, sanded again, jambs painted, color coat sprayed, sanded again, clearcoat sprayed, then wet sanded. We’re showing here the final stages of the cut and polish. All the hard work removing and leveling dents is finally paying off. We’ll have the complete body and paint story along with our finished results in the May ’12 issue!  This shows a nearby area that...  This shows a nearby area that was also repaired with the Uni-Spotter and subsequently glazed. This is after it has been leveled with a flexible sanding board using successively milder grits (40, 80, then 220). If everything is perfectly leveled, only the thinnest skim coat will remain to fill in low areas (high areas will have been leveled with the hammer, and then by sanding).
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