TIG Weld Like A Pro

Remember what we said about controlling the amperage with the foot pedal? When working on a joint like this, start with the area that will require the least amps, i.e. the open side, and work your way around to the tight closed side.

Here are three TIG welds to compare. The first is properly laid with the right amount of shielding gas and amperage. The second illustrates too much amperage (note the flat, molten look). The last shows too much amperage and too little shielding gas. Only the first weld would be considered strong. Also, when welding a T-joint like this the edge will melt faster, so angle the torch slightly away to direct more heat to the flat surface and dab the filler rod where the edge is melting.

Instead, always try to wrap the weld around to the back of the material to create a stronger edge. This is an especially important practice on suspension and chassis components and something we employed throughout Max Effort.

If you modulate the amperage correctly, the heat signature of the weld should have a nice consistent look all the way around. Again, don’t stop where you started, lap over the beginning of the weld about � inch. One last tip: When welding a vertical piece, it is opposite of MIG welding where you weld going down. With TIG welding you start from the bottom and go up (when possible).

Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to TIG quality, since TIG is particularly sensitive to contaminants like scale, rust, paint, grease, even fingerprints, all of which can severely compromise the weld’s integrity. Right after that is tight fitment. While MIG can easily cheat and bridge large gaps with extra material, with TIG it pays to take time to make tight joints. This will not only make the weld easier and better looking, but also stronger.

Ideally you want to completely weld a joint in a single pass, but in instances where you need to stop and restart, don’t pick up where you left off. Instead, step back a � inch or so (three to four dimes) and start there.