Step one is to get the crank...
Step one is to get the crank pulley off. The familiar wheel/pulley pullers don’t work here since stock LS pulleys don’t have boltholes to thread into. A medium-sized (7-8 inches or so) three-claw puller is ideal; the crank actually has three pads to clasp onto. We used a Grade 8 washer for the central bolt to press against rather than the crank itself.
Our original plan for our smog-legal E-Rod swap into the EcoNova was to use the stock front-drive assembly for a ’10-current Camaro, since it’s available separately and cheaply straight from GMPP. The problem with that arrangement, however, is the standard LS engine layout isn’t a drop-in fit for most muscle cars if you want to retain all of the accessories, especially A/C, which is a must for this project since we’re picturing it as a comfortable daily driver
Unfortunately, the LS’s main misaligned accessory is the A/C compressor, since the factory bracket places it low and wide on the passenger side of the engine which causes interference with the chassis in most swaps. If the engine is placed far enough forward, the subframe will be the issue, which means that notching is an option. Nevertheless, if it’s been slid rearward in favor of better weight distribution, it may be the upper A-arm that gets in the way.
One option here would be a relocation bracket that will swing the compressor over enough to fit. That gets it in the right place, but the GM variable displacement compressor still poses a temperature regulation issue. Rick Love at Vintage Air clarified for us that GM pairs their compressor with a fixed orifice tube, but aftermarket systems such as Vintage Air’s retrofit kits employ a Thermostatic Expansion Valve that requires a fixed displacement compressor. Mixing the variable displacement with a Thermostatic Expansion Valve results in the components fighting one another to regulate the pressure and temperature, which is guaranteed to decrease cooling performance (probably no better than 55 degrees) and greatly reduce compressor life. The Pilot Operated Absolute (POA) valves used on most ’60s and ’70s cars (to regulate pressure) present similar issues. Well, there goes the simplicity and budget aspect of the kit.
In place of the original bolts,...
In place of the original bolts, three M8 x 92mm studs go in the passenger side of the block; they should stick out about 3 inches. On the driver side, the two M8 x 118mm studs should stick out 4 inches. Make sure to dab a little antiseize onto all of the stainless fasteners to prevent issues down the road. The EM kit also comes with new gaskets if yours have some use on them.
Rather than swap the compressor and change the bracket, we decided to just go for a bolt-in solution that would also include the upgraded aftermarket components that we’d like to swap in anyway. Top on our list of must-haves in a kit was something that combined quality construction and strength with subdued looks. Polished billet looks great on some cars, but we wanted to retain the factory bolt-in feel. Plus, we didn’t want our pulleys to be the shiniest thing on the whole car.
Eddie Motorsports’ (EM) new S-Drive LS pulley kit fits all the right points for our swap; it arranges the power steering pump, alternator, and A/C compressor into the tightest package possible, is available in a low-bling machined finish, and you get the good stuff while leaving some lunch money in your wallet, which, of course, we’ll probably just spend on more parts. The full kit with all accessories in machine finish comes in at $2,395—add $100 for polish finish, or $200 for their custom Fusioncoat colors. Not bad at all considering all the high-quality accessories are included, like the Edelbrock water pump, Sanden compressor, Powermaster alternator, Maval power steering pump, Gates belt tensioner, and ATI dampener and hub.
So we headed over to Bodie Stroud Industries and yanked the E-Rod LS3 out of the EcoNova project to get our front-drive system in order. While it’s definitely not a requirement to pull the engine to swap this kit on, it does make life easier. If you’re doing it in-car, expect to pull the fan and radiator for clearance.
" Rather than swap the compressor and change the bracket, we decided to just go for a bolt-in solution…
"
No cheap stuff here; EM includes...
No cheap stuff here; EM includes an efficient Sanden SD-7 compressor in their kits. The compressor slides in between the brackets and attaches with two M8 x 25mm capscrews. It’ll arrive with a plain black clutch, EM’s clutch cover slips on and attaches with three 1/4-20 capscrews. Once it’s in, everything can be tightened up. We’ll complete the rest of the A/C system at a later date.
LS3s (and some other LS-based...
LS3s (and some other LS-based engines) have a thin cup-shaped friction washer behind the damper hub in front of the first oil pump gear.
The Edelbrock water pump slides...
The Edelbrock water pump slides onto the studs and is held in place by three neat looking 3/4 x 2.55 spacer posts on the passenger side, and the rear alternator bracket, and two 3/4 x 1.41 spacer posts, and one M8 x 95mm capscrew on the driver side.
No antiseize on these; they...
No antiseize on these; they get thread locker. Blue is recommended, but we only had red so we just went light on the amount.
For easy install and alignment,...
For easy install and alignment, the hub can be heated in boiling water or on a heat plate to just below 200 degrees F to expand it. Our install tool is a brew of rental and homemade; we used the bearing and nut from an OEM install kit rented from AutoZone since the bearing fits the ATI hub like a glove, and added a 10-inch section of M16 x 2.0 threaded rod to get full thread engagement. Can’t find any? Try MetricSpecialties.com, that’s where we went.
Once the pump is tight it’s...
Once the pump is tight it’s a good time to install the hose fittings into the side of the Edelbrock pump. Use Teflon tape (or liquid) here for a good seal.
The front alternator bracket...
The front alternator bracket goes on with two M8 x 25mm capscrews and only finger tight for now as well.
The EM kit requires a reverse...
The EM kit requires a reverse rotation pump, so a slick new high-flow Edelbrock water pump is included and the factory pump gets the yank.
On the passenger side, the...
On the passenger side, the rear compressor bracket attaches directly to the water pump using two M10 x 20mm capscrews. The front side of the compressor bracket installs to the spacer posts with three M8 x 25mm capscrews. This bracket stays finger tight for now since we still need to wiggle in the compressor.
EM sends a slick-looking and...
EM sends a slick-looking and powerful Powermaster 140-amp alternator already equipped with one of their pulley and fan assemblies to make life easy. This should be enough for most cars even with upgraded electronics and EFI—exactly what we need for the GMPP E-Rod computer. Once it’s in place, torque everything down.
Rather than a press-on pulley,...
Rather than a press-on pulley, the Edelbrock water pump uses a standard bolt-on pulley. Four 5/16-24 x 3/4 capscrews with red thread locker keep this one in place.
The remote reservoir-style...
The remote reservoir-style Maval power steering pump comes with the pulley prepressed into the output shaft, so install is as simple as two 5/16-18 x 3 capscrews and lock washers with thread locker. After adding fluid, make sure you don’t start the engine until power steering hoses, reservoir, and fluid are installed and the system is fully bled or the pump could run dry and be damaged.
The compressor manifold pops...
The compressor manifold pops right into place and is secured with two M8 x 25mm capscrews. Make sure that the two O-rings around the compressor ports are properly placed to prevent pinching them and creating a leak.
ATI’s Super Damper is our...
ATI’s Super Damper is our damper of choice, so we were thrilled EM included it in their kit. The Super Damper shell assembly is indexed to the crank hub with an offset hole marked by an indent dimple on the face of the hub and the back of the damper. These need to be aligned for proper assembly, but it really only goes on one way. Make sure you draw the damper assembly onto the hub evenly, and then torque the six countersunk flathead screws to 16 ft-lb.
Since the Sanden compressor...
Since the Sanden compressor arrives with only a block-off plate installed, these two bolts are removed for the EM compressor manifold.
For the power steering pump,...
For the power steering pump, three M10 x 25mm set screws with thread locker thread into the engine block on the lower driver side. They should stick out about 1/2 inch. Three 3/4 x 1.75 spacer posts screw onto those and provide the mounting points for the power steering bracket and the three M10 x 20mm capscrews that secure it.
We installed the EM crank...
We installed the EM crank pulley with three 3/8-16 x 1/4 capscrews and Belleville washers, then bolted the Gates tensioner onto the bottom of the alternator bracket using a single 3/8-16 x 2 1/4 capscrew and washer. Before the tensioner cover can go on, we used a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner and slide the belt around the pulleys. The new GM crank belt should have been installed and torqued to 240 ft-lb; we just overlooked it.
Two tiny 10-32 x 3/4 flathead...
Two tiny 10-32 x 3/4 flathead screws with thread locker keep the tensioner cover in place, and voila—we’re done! We’ve got a tidy and tight package that at only 21.5 inches from compressor to alternator helps squeeze an LS into the most cramped engine bays, plus we’re ready to drop our E-Rod back into the EcoNova and plumb and wire it. Stay Tuned!