It never fails. A guy will spend months or even years dreaming about his ideal engine, and when it comes time to order parts for the induction, the index finger slides to the bottom of the page for that big kahuna camshaft. Or maybe he’s a high-tech guy, and he opts for a pair of huge hair dryers, or a monster blower. In a politically correct world, we’d have to say that most high-performance engines are “vacuum challenged.” Before you know it, you’ve got a dangerous fire-breathing hot rod that just can’t stop.
Craig Chaffers of Classic Performance Products (CPP) explains: “There’s a diaphragm that holds vacuum, and whenever you step on the brake, the diaphragm cavity gets small and it pushes on the brake pedal rod. If it’s an engine that doesn’t produce enough vacuum, the booster doesn’t fill up fast enough and doesn’t apply enough pressure.” The end result is a brake pedal that feels hard, but doesn’t stop the car. If you’ve ever turned the key off and pushed the brake pedal and the brakes don’t work—this is the same thing, only worse, because you’re moving a lot faster. For power-assisted brakes to work properly, they safely need 15 inches of vacuum, and quite often, powerful engines are lacking in this area. “When you have an engine like this,” Chaffers says, “you’re going to have brakes that don’t work very well when they’re booster equipped.”
The performance experts at CPP have seen this scenario a lot, and have developed a vacuum boost kit that is a simple add-on to cars that already have working power-assisted master cylinders. The kit (PN VP612, $389) includes a billet aluminum pump with integral 12V motor and Hobbs pressure switch, hose, fasteners, and an electrical harness. Our 1968 Chevy Nova project car was a top candidate for the CPP vacuum boost kit, since its 400ci small-block was only able to muster 4 inches of vacuum at 900 rpm. That’s nowhere near enough to operate our new CPP four-wheel disc brakes (or any other disc brakes for that matter), so we made the vacuum boost kit our next priority.
Our ’68 Nova is equipped with...
Our ’68 Nova is equipped with a new CPP master cylinder/booster kit (PN 6874BB4-11, $299) designed to work with their Big Brake kit, but it wasn’t able to work any vacuum miracles: For it to work properly, we needed more than the 4 inches of vacuum that our 523hp small-block could deliver at the idle speed of 900 rpm. Check out the cool factory-appearing electronic tach from Shiftworks (PN S517-G, $134.50, www.Shiftworks.com).
Of course, there are other options—like converting to manual brakes or even a pricier hydro boost system—but in the end the cost effectiveness and functionality of the vacuum boost kit won us over. “The next step would be to go to a hydro boost,” Chaffers says, “but there’s a lot more money involved. On a hydro boost you’re looking at $700 without the master cylinder. If you’ve got a good master cylinder and you go with the vacuum pump kit, you’re going to save over $300. Plus, with a hydro boost you’ve got to make a line kit to the power steering box and the power steering pump, so the vacuum pump is simpler too.”
We’re now one step closer to getting Project Nova on the road. Stay tuned to this same Nova channel—next month we’ll be bringing you a really cool story on the Switch Pitch variable-stall Turbo 400 converter from Phoenix Transmission Products.

The heart of the CPP brake...

The heart of the CPP brake vacuum booster kit is this sweet-looking billet aluminum vacuum pump/electric motor assembly, which can be mounted anywhere underhood.

Our ’68 Nova is equipped with...

Our ’68 Nova is equipped with a new CPP master cylinder/booster kit (PN 6874BB4-11, $299) designed to work with their Big Brake kit, but it wasn’t able to work any vacuum miracles: For it to work properly, we needed more than the 4 inches of vacuum that our 523hp small-block could deliver at the idle speed of 900 rpm. Check out the cool factory-appearing electronic tach from Shiftworks (PN S517-G, $134.50, www.Shiftworks.com).

The pump is activated by this...

The pump is activated by this Hobbs pressure switch, which senses the vacuum inside the brake booster. The motor turns on when vacuum goes below 15 inches, and turns on once vacuum reaches 25 inches, thus guaranteeing enough vacuum to operate your brakes under any engine vacuum scenario.

The vacuum port on the top...

The vacuum port on the top of the CPP vacuum pump is clearly labeled. The other port is an inlet, and shouldn’t be blocked off or connected to anything.

To mount our pump, we chose...

To mount our pump, we chose an area just behind the driver-side headlight on the inner fender. This kept it relatively close to the vacuum booster and electrical connections, but far away enough so we wouldn’t hear it run. You’ll need to fabricate a mounting plate for the pump and trial fit it before drilling any holes.

The CPP kit comes with rubber...

The CPP kit comes with rubber isolation grommets to keep it from transmitting excessive vibration to the chassis. The ¼-20 bolts and 7/16-inch nuts are included.

The CPP vacuum pump is roughly...

The CPP vacuum pump is roughly 6.5 inches wide and 7 inches tall, making it a comfy fit for the Nova’s forward wheelhouse area. After mounting it to our homemade bracket, we bolted it to the inner fender with some more ¼-20 bolts.

We then used the horn relay...

We then used the horn relay ground for our vacuum pump motor’s ground (the black wire), which was located adjacent to the pump.

Note that there are no external...

Note that there are no external relays or switches for the CPP vacuum pump kit. Just hook up the vacuum line, wire it to power, and the pump regulates the vacuum level to the brake booster all by itself.

The vacuum pump power wire...

The vacuum pump power wire (blue) needs a switched 12V power supply on at least a 15-amp circuit, which we found under the dash. We can’t wait to clean up the rat’s nest of wiring when we put our Classic Industries interior in.

We routed the half-inch vacuum...

We routed the half-inch vacuum line behind the fenderwell for a cleaner look. After cutting the hose to length, we fastened it to the brake booster’s check valve and vacuum pump with the kit’s hose clamps. Note that the vacuum hose is not to be teed into engine vacuum. Engine vacuum should be plugged at the source.

The proof’s in the pudding!...

The proof’s in the pudding! With everything bolted on and hooked up, we fired the engine and saw a full 20 inches of vacuum right off the bat. The pedal now has a nice boosted feel at all throttle positions.