Don't Over-Carburete
0-20 hp for $300
You'll see this topic crop up elsewhere in this issue-it's an easy area to swing and miss big time! If you plan on upgrading to a different carb like one of the quadzillion Holleys out there, stick with a size that is rpm and cubic-inch appropriate for your engine. While it is true that larger carbs do tend to make more peak horsepower than smaller carbs, reality says that most engines prefer a smaller venturi carb to get better signal to the boosters, better fuel atomization, better throttle response, and actually more midrange torque. Historically, most mild 302- to 340-inch engines do well with a 600-cfm carb, 340- to 360-inch engines like a 650, 360 to 390-inch engines a 700, and only over 390 cubes would a 750 really start to perform well.
Go Big With The Throttle Body
0-20 hp for $400
Unlike their predecessors, EFI engines don't have to worry about atomizing fuel at the blades-they just act as air doors. The bigger the door, the more air walks in, the more fuel the injectors spit out, and the more power you make. And isn't making more power what this is really all about?
| CHEAP TRICKS |
| Tip: |
HP gain: |
Cost: |
| Pick the right cam |
20-50 |
$300 |
| Degree your cam |
5-30 |
$0 |
| Lash valves |
0-15 |
$0 |
| File-fit rings |
2-10 |
$30 |
| Oil pan |
0-25 |
$200 |
| Quench |
5-15 |
$125 |
| Spark plugs |
0-5 |
$25 |
| Back-cut valves |
5-15 |
$40 |
| Carburetor |
0-25 |
$300 |
| Throttle body |
0-25 |
$400 |