When working in your home garage, many times the parameters of your mission forces you to sub out a job that deep inside, you know you could do if you could only afford the right tools. More often than not, that road is paved with broken glass, making the ability for you to get it done on a budget almost impossible. On a recent visit to Xtreme Restorations in Slatersville, Rhode Island, we came across a '68 Road Runner being updated into a fire-breathing dual-purpose street/strip racer. We were just in time to follow the design and installation of its rollcage using affordable tools that would be well within the limits of most homebuilders. Team member Richard Desautels told us that if you want to go fast, you'd better have adequate safety to back it up. With a 1,000hp Keith Black injected Hemi bolted in, this is one serious car and the 'cage had better be all business. Adding a stout rollcage will not only bring additional strength to the chassis, but also plenty of safety in case it's ever needed. High-performance driving is serious stuff and the team at Xtreme infuses plenty of race-proven performance engineering into all of their fabrication.
Henry Noyes' '68 Road Runner...
Henry Noyes' '68 Road Runner is being built as a dual-purpose car since it will see plenty of action both on the street and strip. Packed with a 572ci Hilborn-injected Keith Black Hemi making 1,000 hp, the rollcage installation will need to meet NHRA 9.99 e.t. specs.
Getting started, it's important to have the exact dash, steering column, seating, and safety belts on hand as they will all work into the final equation regarding the design of the 'cage. Once the interior of the car was gutted, Richard wasted no time in obtaining his baseline measurements for the main hoop. Allowing for 2.5 inches off the roof and sides, he first obtained an overall measurement of the hoop. He then followed by using an angle finder to determine the inboard contour of the B-pillar and then the roofline. To create a template to draw from, electrical conduit is light, cheap, and easy to work with to get the basic shape of your 'cage and, in the interest of saving money, it's also important to measure twice and cut once, he told us. Once test-fitted, it was time for Rudy Desautels to get started using the affordable JD Squared Model 3 tubing bender and M3B Round Tube Die Set for up to 1.75-inch tubing. Following along with the incorporated degree pointer system and conduit template, producing top-quality wrinkle-free bends proved to be a breeze. For all points to be matched to the main hoop, the JD Squared tube notcher is another low-cost tool with massive capabilities, allowing even a newcomer to dial-in cuts like a pro. Richard spent time studying each completed 'cage section as it was mocked in place advising us that the 'cage should be well balanced from all angles when you step back and look at it. As the work progressed, the seats and safety belts were also set in place to allow for exact measurements to accommodate their individual proportions. To wrap it all up, you'll need to prep and paint the rollcage and surrounding areas to protect them from corrosion. The completed installation not only looks clean and well designed, it will add strength to the chassis. But most importantly, it will add safety to this ride.

To avoid damage from grinding...

To avoid damage from grinding or welding sparks, the team at Xtreme Restorations removed the complete interior from the car. Here, Richard Desautels measures for the main hoop of the rollcage, paying close attention to the inboard contour of the B-pillar, which he will later measure with an angle finder.

After measuring the main hoop,...

After measuring the main hoop, lightweight electrical conduit was used to create a working template. Here, an 11-foot section was effortlessly bent using a simple conduit bender and an angle finder to set the contour of the B-pillar. If adjustments are needed, rebending the conduit is easy and inexpensive.

The conduit is measured from...

The conduit is measured from the outside diameter for the final tube dimension. Here the main hoop is test-fit in place atop 1/8-inch steel anchoring plates, which will later be welded into place to support the main hoop.

Using a JD Squared Model 3...

Using a JD Squared Model 3 tubing bender and appropriate die set, the first section of 1.75-inch .118-wall seamless mild steel tubing is installed in place and measured for the first bend. It's a good idea to allow an inch to each side of the hoop for final trimming.

With the tubing installed...

With the tubing installed and secured in place, a fender stand was used to support the long length of the pipe section waiting to be formed. The degree pointer was then set to zero to allow close monitoring of the pipe during the pull process.

Team member Rudy Desautels...

Team member Rudy Desautels dug his heels in to begin the pull process. His first pull set the angle for the B-pillar. The 36-inch telescoping pull arm is easily adjusted to provide plenty of leverage as you proceed.

Using the conduit template,...

Using the conduit template, once the first pull was completed at 20 degrees, it was easy to mirror the bend to check for accuracy. It's a good idea to use lightweight machine oil on the tubing for ease in bending.

The high-ratio ratchet mechanism...

The high-ratio ratchet mechanism of the Model 3 bender allows you to select the leverage points you need while proceeding with your bends. Here the bender is halfway through a 70-degree pull for the top section of the main hoop.

Using the conduit template,...

Using the conduit template, Richard matched up the 70-degree pull to the top of the main hoop to dial in its final proportions. Xtreme opted for the JD Squared optional 36-inch-tall steel base to mount the bender and secured it to the shop floor for plenty of tough workouts.

This image lets you see the...

This image lets you see the well-designed degree pointer system in action. The three pull pins allow easy manipulation of the die for switching parts and leverage adjustment while the side bolt secures the tubing in place.

The initial test-fit of the...

The initial test-fit of the main hoop proved that it was right on the money after a minor trim to the bottom edges for final height adjustment atop the 1/8-inch mild-steel floor bracing plates. Be sure the hoop is equal and well balanced from left to right, especially when seen through the outside windows. Note that as a unibody car, the Road Runner's attachment points are on the body, since there is no frame. A full-framed car such as a Chevelle requires that the rollbar's attachment points be made to the frame.

After bending and welding...

After bending and welding the 1/8-inch floor bracing plates in place with his Hobart Beta-MIG 200, Richard tacked in the main hoop. No final welding will be done until the remaining mounting points are completed.

The rear drop tubes were measured...

The rear drop tubes were measured at 65 inches from the top of the main hoop, through the package tray with a 35-degree bend required. Conduit was used again as a template to follow the bends.

To properly fit the drop tubes,...

To properly fit the drop tubes, side tubes, and cross tube to the main hoop, Richard used a JD Squared TN-100 tubing notcher. After coating the tubing section with machine oil, a 1/2-inch hand drill and bimetal hole saw (available at most hardware stores) completed the notch in seconds. Follow with an electric grinder topped with a 40-grit disc to clean up the cuts.

With the driver seat in place,...

With the driver seat in place, the swivel-away side bars were designed (with the same process) to allow easy access to the interior using a weld-in kit from Competition Engineering.

This shot of the trunk lets...

This shot of the trunk lets you see just how strong the combination is between the drop tubes and 1/8-inch steel mounting plates. Note that at each mounting point, there is also additional steel plate reinforcement underneath the car to support the entire rollcage.

The completed 'cage looks...

The completed 'cage looks wicked and its brute strength will offer the driver plenty of protection while also keeping the car legal when it gets to the racetrack.