Tremec TKO 600 Transmission - Clutched And Dangerous Part 2

Accessing the pedal box area can be a pain, as it requires dropping the steering column. Fortunately, bolting up the pedals is less challenging. The big automatic brake pedal in our Cutlass was attached with a tube that ran through the pivot point, which was then locked down with a pin. The manual trans clutch/brake pedal assembly mounts in a similar fashion to the stock location. The only difference is that the clutch pedal pivot slides inside the pivot tube of the brake pedal.

On most GM muscle cars, the Z-bar mounting bracket attaches to the outside of the driver- side framerail. To access the framerail, Jarvis cut a hole through the driver-side front wheelwell. The Z-bar kit includes a template to help position the mounting bracket properly. Ideally, the Z-bar should be situated as parallel to the ground, and perpendicular to the motor as possible to ensure easy clutch disengagement.

One ball stud attaches to the bracket that's welded to the framerail, while the other screws into a threaded boss on the block. The ends of the Z-bar shaft slip onto the studs and rotate around them. The threaded boss on the block is very difficult to access inside the car, so it was screwed in before the motor was installed.

Most GM muscle cars equipped with automatic transmissions from the factory also had a hole in the floorboard to accommodate the clutch pedal pushrod, but it was covered by a block-off plate. Removing it can be difficult since it's hidden beneath the brake booster, but it eliminates the need to drill a hole yourself. The pedal kit includes a rubber boot that bolts in place of the block-off plate using the stock screws. With the pedals in position, the clutch actuator pushrod was attached from the pedal to the Z-bar, and then the master cylinder pushrod was connected to the brake pedal. Next, the clutch fork pushrod and springs were attached to the Z-bar and clutch fork.

As the linkage assembly begins pulling on the clutch fork, it pivots on an adjustable ball stud, which in turn releases the,throwout bearing on the pressure plate. Exactly how the ball stud is adjusted determines where in the pedal's range of travel the clutch engages. Many drag racers prefer a clutch pedal that engages right off the floor for quick launches and reaction times. Road racers, on the other hand, often prefer the pedal to engage as high up the travel range as possible for brisk shifts and reduced clutch rattle. Since Project Olds certainly isn't a drag car, Jarvis opted for the latter option by lengthening the adjuster stud until the clutch fork began contacting the throwout bearing, then backed it off a few turns. After the clutch's break-in period, the linkage should be adjusted again to take up any slack.

Included in the Hurst swap kit is a custom driveshaft from Inland Empire Driveline. After sending in the necessary measurements, it sent us a 3-inch steel driveshaft to mate up with our TKO 600 and 1350-series rearend yoke. Although an aluminum shaft would probably work just fine, Jarvis prefers steel units in A-bodies since their wheelbase is so long.