Street Fighter
Every project we tackle on this car gets us one step closer to having it run and drive. It feels like we're inching toward a finish line a mile away but this step is a big one. So far, we've built up the drivetrain and suspension to handle some high-speed road racing and quick-steering autocross action. Now it's time to work out the details.
This month, we're taking aim at the fuel system. The factory stuff isn't up to the task of supplying clean and ample fuel to the thirsty 850 Mighty Demon. The factory fuel tank capacity is 16 gallons, which is plenty for track days and street driving, but our chosen replacement, a bolt-in stainless steel tank from Rick's Tanks, is a generous 23 gallons. The biggest reason for the upgrade is that Rick's tank has built-in baffling that makes it perfect for the twisties of a road course or autocross circuit. Fuel slosh can potentially starve an engine, and that's never a good thing. The new tank also has a built-in electric AC Delco fuel pump that will supply enough fuel for the carbureted Windsor we're running, and even a high-pressure EFI system like on a 5.0L Mustang engine. Unlike most fuel cells, this tank fits in the factory location and follows the body line of the Mustang's underbelly. The top does protrude into the interior of the trunk, but barely cuts down on the storage space. Rick's Tanks delivered a true bolt-in product that is exactly that. Besides trimming the factory filler neck, no modification was needed to install the tank.
From the pump, we chose to use Earl's Pro-Lite 350 hose. It's something we've used before in our project cars. We like it because it's lightweight, black, and really easy to work with. Unlike traditional steel-braided lines, this stuff cuts effortlessly and doesn't fray. Have you ever been cut or stabbed from a stainless line assembly? It's not a problem with the Pro-Lite hose. Its core is a synthetic rubber hose with nylon-braided sheathing that is resistant to abrasion. Pro-Lite is about half the weight of stainless-braided hose with many similarperformance specifications. The pressure maximum is 350 psi, which is much higher than anything this Mustang will ever see. Operating temperatures are extreme too, which is usually true in a race car. This super-clean black hose wouldn't look right without Earl's Ano-Tuff black-anodized aluminum hose ends and adapters.
In line to the regulator we used Earl's screen-type fuel filter that has -8 AN male fittings on either end to make it easy to splice into our main feed line. We used -8 sizing for the feed and return lines to keep ample flow to the regulator and to allow the fuel to return without restriction back to the tank. The pump puts out 40 psi of pressure, so having a high-flow return is important.
Because the pump's output pressure is much higher than necessary for a carbureted application without a controller, we used a return, or bypass-style, regulator. Fuel enters the regulator as the pump's output pressure is reduced for the outlet (carburetor) side, and the excess fuel is returned to the tank. We're using an Aeromotive A1000 carbureted bypass-style pressure regulator that is built just for this type of fuelsystem. It's adjustable between 3 and 15 psi. This particular one is made specifically for marine applications, but is suitable for street and race use. We liked it because it was all black instead of black and silver, or black and red, like their other versions of the same regulator. The marine version carries extra certifications that raise its price from the others, but it sure looks sharp.
The last run of Pro-Lite goes from the regulator to the carburetor inlet line. The regulator has two carburetor outlets so you can feed each bowl separately, but we wanted a single inlet into the Barry Grant's braided -6 fuel line.
Here's what we had to start...
Here's what we had to start with. The factory 16-gallon stamped-steel tank was in better condition than it looks, but it wasn't going to suit our needs as the build progresses. We tore it out to make way for the new Rick's Tanks fabricated stainless steel replacement.
With the tank out of our Project...
With the tank out of our Project Street Fighter, we removed all of the factory seam sealer and debris that had worked its way between the tank and the trunk floor.
The new tank from Rick's Hot...
The new tank from Rick's Hot Rod Shop sets right in place of the factory unit. It comes without any holes drilled for mounting, so we marked what holes we wanted to use from the underside. The holes are a little too small to mark with a Sharpie, so we used a small crafts brush and model paint to mark the holes. We then drilled the holes for 1/4-inch Allen bolts, two for each side of the tank for a total of eight.
To keep dust, debris, air,...
To keep dust, debris, air, and water from coming up between the tank and the trunk floor, we used clear silicone sealant. You can use just about any sealant including seam sealer, bathroom calking, or gasket material. A 1/4-inch bead does the trick.
This is the inlet and vent....
This is the inlet and vent. The inlet is placed in the factory location, but because the whole tank is taller for the extra capacity, you will need to shorten the filler neck about 3 inches to compensate. The vent has a ball valve just beneath the top of the tank as a safety feature in case of a rollover. The hose attached to this valve needs to vent to the exterior.
This is the tank fully installed....
This is the tank fully installed. The tank is built specifically for '64 to '70 Mustangs, so it keeps the body line between the rear valance and the wheel opening. The last thing we wanted was something hanging down lower than the body.