This is the finished fender...
This is the finished fender flare. It's hard to tell that anything has been done at all. Let's see how Jeff Lilly Restorations accomplished this look.
Fast cars call for fat tires. Drag racers can get away with installing wheel tubs, bringing the tire in as far as possible. This works well, but what about the guys who need big tires in the front too? Fender flares can give us some room for the extra rubber. They also give us more clearance for lowered cars. The great thing about fender flares is that even if you don't need the wider meats, they look really cool.
Some people have gone overboard with fender flares, giving the car a cartoon-ish look. Fortunately, Jeff Lilly, owner and builder at Jeff Lilly Restorations of San Antonio, agrees with us. Jeff's story started in his early years, working for his father building custom cars in Ohio. When his father retired in 1985, Jeff packed up and moved the shop to San Antonio.
This is what they had to start...
This is what they had to start with. It's a stock fendered '66 Mustang Fastback. The original wheel openings don't fit the racer look Jeff Lilly was going for.
He walked us through the process of grafting tasteful and functional fender flares on their project '66 Mustang Fastback. The Mustang, named "Franken Stang," is a great example of his work because he has refined the style of the car, keeping the appeal of its factory look. The car has undergone many changes at the shop, but the intentions were always the same, to keep the car looking clean and not overdone.
Instead of shaping each flare...
Instead of shaping each flare from scratch, spending many hours fighting the metal, Jeff has found these factory flares work great. They are from a '71 Mustang and the front reproduction fenders go for around $80 each. This year's flare is much more aggressive than on the '66, but not gaudy looking. Here, Mani at Jeff Lilly Restorations, looks over the fender for any imperfections.
The fender flare modification was inspired by the Trans-Am race cars of the late '60s and early '70s. Instead of starting from scratch and creating the flare from a flat piece of metal, Jeff has found that the '71 reproduction quarter-panels feature a flare that looks great on the early cars. Because it came from the factory, it isn't too large or goofy looking. Being able to use a factory panel also helps keep the flares consistent one wheel to another. These replacement quarter-panels go for around $80, and keep the cost low.
There are some specialty tools involved, but nothing out of reach to the home-based builder. This project can serve as guidance for many makes and models, not just an early Mustang.
What Is A Cleko?
There are a handful of absolutely necessary tools in the fabrication of body panels, and a set of Clekos and Cleko pliers are some of them. A Cleko is basically a temporary rivet that can be reused many times. It's purpose is to hold two panels together while adjustments are made.
Most Clekos use a 1/8-inch pilot hole to locate the two panels. The Cleko then is pushed through a hole drilled through the two panels to be temporarily fastened. The pliers depress the button on the top of the Cleko forcing the fingers at the opposite end to retract. You press the Cleko into the hole, and then release the pliers. The fingers force out and hold the two panels together. Removal uses the exact opposite procedure
Local hardware stores probably won't carry Clekos or Cleko pliers because they are a specialty metal fabrication tool. Matco Tools does carry a complete line of Clekos in 1/8-, 3/16-, and 1/4-inch diameters. It's good to keep a decent stash of Clekos because you never know how many you will need. If you want to stock up, 1/8-inch Clekos are the most common.
Source:
Matco Tools
www.matcotools.com
| HOW MUCH IT COSTS |
| Description: | Part No.: | Price: |
| Cleko Pliers | F2AV11-192 | $28.30 |
| 1/8-inch Cleko | F2AV11-194 | $0.50 each |
| 3/16-inch Cleko | F2AV11-195 | $0.50 each |
| 1/4-inch Cleko | F2AV11-193 | $2.35 |
Here is the '71 flare after...
Here is the '71 flare after it has been cut from the fender. Mani marked the fender 1/4 inch outside of where the taper begins. He carefully cuts it out using a cut-off wheel, tin snips, and power sheers. Mani points to the drop off that is factory on the '71 but not on the '66. Jeff wanted to keep the look closer to that of the '66, so Mani will be removing the flat edge.
The '66 Mustang wheel openings...
The '66 Mustang wheel openings are significantly smaller than those of the '71, so they would need to narrow the flare. Using a plumb bob, they mark the center of the '66 fender and mark the '71 flare's center using a square.
Mani fits them on the car...
Mani fits them on the car until the look is just right. The overhang gives the car a slammed look. They use tape to attach the pieces so they can stand back and take a look.
Once the general position...
Once the general position is established, Mani uses clekos to hold the panels in their final location. Clekos are like temporary rivets that use 1/8-inch holes to mount them. These holes will later be welded up.
Since they cut the original...
Since they cut the original drop off on the '71 flare, the edge needs to be finished. Mani creates a cardboard template of the wheel opening. A new template will have to be made for each corner of the car to accommodate minor inconsistencies.
Mani bends a piece of wire...
Mani bends a piece of wire to match the template that will be attached to the wheel opening. The closer the shape is to the template, the less it will fight you later on.
Here Mani uses simple spring...
Here Mani uses simple spring clamps to hold the wire to the fender. These can be purchased at any hardware store. He also replaces the Clekos with self-tapping screws for a tighter fit.
Mani tack welds the wire onto...
Mani tack welds the wire onto the flare every couple inches. This helps keep the shape while they remove and replace the flare in the next couple steps.
Now is a great time to make...
Now is a great time to make a template of the wheel opening so it can be duplicated for the other side.
Between the tack welds, Mani...
Between the tack welds, Mani cuts along the edge of the new flare through the original fender. On the backside, Mani peels away the old fender where the two overlap so there is an even transition from the old fender to the new flare.
Here you can see how the overlap...
Here you can see how the overlap fit has been turned into a butt joint.
Now is the time for any last...
Now is the time for any last minute adjustments before the flare is welded on completely. Mani uses a hammer and dolly to smooth out the metal.
They like to use a MIG welder...
They like to use a MIG welder to do the final weld because it keeps the heataffected zone relatively small. After each squirt of the welder, Mani cools off the weld with compressed air. This keeps the panel from getting distorted.
Metal finishing starts with...
Metal finishing starts with a grinding disc, then ends with a 36-grit sanding pad seen here. When completed, the body should look like it came from the factory that way.