We won't go into a lot of...
We won't go into a lot of detail on how to get the original equipment out, but keep in mind you'll have to disconnect the driveshaft, brake lines, exhaust, shocks, and leaf springs. We removed the fuel line just to be safe, and plugged the rubber line from the tank with an old spark plug.
Four-Link Ford Fix
Total Control Products offers two different four-link rear suspensions for early Mustangs, the g-Bar and g-Link; both systems convert the leaf-spring setup in '64-70 Mustangs (and '67-70 Mercury Cougars) to a triangulated (or canted) four-link. Both systems use a bolt-in cradle to simplify installation and guarantee proper geometry, however, the difference in nomenclature is due to the g-Link's re-buildable pivot-ball bearing housings (similar in concept to a Heim joint) for its control arm joints, while the g-Bar employs a street-friendly poly bushing. The one thing that's important to remember is that the leaf spring is completely eliminated in both. This does several good things, like decouple the suspension travel from the pinion angle, and eliminate axle wrap and wheel hop associated with leaf springs. Moreover, spring rate and ride height are fully adjustable (up to 4.5 inches of adjustability), and a wide choice of coilovers are available, from single-adjustable VariShocks, to double-adjustables, and even Ride Tech's ShockWave air spring/shock combos.
Within the g-Link rear suspension family, there are additional options, such as an upgrade to billet lower control arms. Customers can choose to use their own rearend housing (either 8- or 9-inch, so long as the axle tubes are a minimum of 213/16-inch diameter), or use one of Alston's bomb-proof Fab9 housings, as we're doing here with the Street Fighter Mustang. Customers electing to use their own 8-inch housing can purchase Alston's upper control arm weld fixture, which precisely places the upper control arm mount so that it may be welded correctly. (A big plus in our book since we've had to do the exact same operation without such a fixture when we converted to a four-link on our '76 Camaro project car.) We'll also mention parenthetically that the stock 8-inch rear is super safe to about 350 hp when the stronger '67-up carrier assembly is used.
One other nice Total Control touch is the flexibility of shock mounting geometry the g-Bar and g-Link provide. This allows the user to tune the leverage ratio on the coilover for a maximum range of handling characteristics. Those opting for coilovers also have a large selection of spring rates to choose from, ranging from 110 lb/in of rate, up to 300 lb/in, with eight choices in all. One trick option you'll want to look hard at is the spring seat thrust bearing, which seats the bottom of the coil spring in a sealed Torrington bearing. This makes changing the ride height an effortless affair, as there's almost no turning resistance once the spring seat is unlocked.
So what's all this gonna cost you? We shelled out $2,918 for the max-effort combo, but you can get into a basic g-Bar system, using your own rearend, and equipping it with single-adjustable VariShock coilovers, for about $1,739. If you've got a serious street Mustang or Cougar project going together, you may already familiar with Total Control's constellation of front suspension parts. The g-Bar and g-Link are a great complement to these pieces, and as a whole, bring Ford's 40-year-old econocar suspension into the 21st century, and then some.--Johnny Hunkins
| WHERE THE MONEY WENT |
| TCP G-Link kit | $2,598 |
| TCP sway bar | $289 |
| TCP spanner wrench | $31 |
| Total | $2,918 |
| STREET FIGHTER MUSTANG THE COST SO FAR |
| '66 Mustang 6-cyl. coupe | $3,800 |
| Battery replacement and relocation (11/08) | $299.00 |
| Radiator and fans (12/08) | $1,398.12 |
| Spindles, front brakes, wheels, and tires (1/09) | $3,067.04 |
| Trunk rehab and tool box (2/09) | $40.48 |
| Rack and pinion steering, column, and steering wheel (4/09) | $3,012.00 |
| 9-inch rear and brakes (5/09) | $4,631.02 |
| Rear suspension (current) | $2,918.00 |
| Total | $19,165.66 |
 |  Once the metal is clean, put...  Once the metal is clean, put the brackets and cradle back up into the car. Bolt it in loosely where the shocks originally mounted to the body. While supporting the frame brackets with a C-clamp, measure to make sure the cradle and brackets are in square. |  The frame brackets have two...  The frame brackets have two holes in them that you will need to continue though the frame rail. In addition to the weld, the brackets attach with a square-bent U-bolt that you will push though one hole to come out the other. |
 |  Double-check that the cradle...  Double-check that the cradle and brackets are still square, then tighten all mounting hardware. Now you're ready to weld the frame brackets onto the frame. I used a Lincoln SP-135 MIG welder that operates off your everyday 110 outlet. TCP instructs to stitch inch-long sections, leaving an inch gap between them. |  Once the weld cools, paint...  Once the weld cools, paint the weld and other bare metal areas to keep them from rusting. I used Dupli-Color's rubberized undercoating, and masked the area with a piece of cardboard. |
 |  Bolt the lower link in where...  Bolt the lower link in where the front of the leaf spring was originally mounted. The upper link can also go in at this time. Often the bolts only want to fit one way, but if you have a choice, we suggest being as consistent as possible, facing the heads of the bolts either inward or outward for a clean look. |  |
 |  Now it's time to bring in...  Now it's time to bring in the rearend. Carefully jack the new rearend roughly into place, and bolt the links to it as the TCP instructions show. |  Bolt the coilovers in with...  Bolt the coilovers in with the supplied brackets and hardware without the springs installed. Jack the rearend up, moving the suspension though its full range of travel to make sure there is no binding. If it looks OK, you can install the springs in the coilovers. TCP offers a spring compressor, but we were able to push down on the spring enough to install it. |
 We wanted to see where the...  We wanted to see where the ride height was before making any adjustments. The wheel fit beautifully in the wheelwell, however, without modification to the lip, it wasn't practical to leave it; we needed to raise the rear about inch. |  |  Once the car is close to its...  Once the car is close to its desired ride height, you can adjust the spring pre-load with TCP's spanner wrench. The adjuster has a ball that fits into a detent on the threaded section of the shock, so measuring the number of full and partial rotations is extremely easy. Make sure you finish your adjustment at one of these detents so the set screw doesn't damage the threads. |
 The frame brackets come with...  The frame brackets come with threaded inserts to mount the chassis-side sway bar brackets. Before slipping the bushing over the sway bar, grease it with the supplied lube. |  The end links are adjustable,...  The end links are adjustable, so you can ensure there is no pre-load on the sway bar when the suspension is at rest. There are three dimples on the sway bar to choose from to give the bar more or less effect. |  Before you lower the car and...  Before you lower the car and walk away from the project, grease all of the Zerk fittings on the new suspension to help it last a long time. The rear suspension still needs some adjusting, and once the new front suspension is installed, we will be able fine-tune everything together. |