Improved Seating
While most of our makeover tips are exterior in nature, a few interior pieces are significant enough to go beyond cockpit nuance. The proper seats are such an item, and we chose the Procar Rally Series 1000 seats for our Laguna project for three reasons: they had the right look, they were the right price, and they are well built for our purposes. To do a period-correct muscle car, we just don't favor a high-back import-style seat, but we do want head and side-bolster support. The Procar seat isn't excessively tall, and has a nice adjustable headrest in the style of a '60s or '70s muscle car. The lateral support on the seat back and seat bottom are also very effective, while maintaining a period-correct stitching and vinyl style. Pricewise, we paid only $736.90 for a matching pair in black vinyl, including the seat brackets for a '75 Laguna. Most people think these are OEM equipment, but in reality, they're way more supportive, and look the part up close, and from a distance.

Source:
Procar By Scat
310-370-5501
www.procarbyscat.com

Console Rehab
Some interior components make an important visual statement about your car, and your center console is one of them. At the very minimum, having a crappy looking console can really detract from an otherwise nice car. From a budget perspective, rehabbing a console is so inexpensive that anybody can afford to do it. Our options on the Laguna were limited: you can't get a reproduction one, and NOS items are outrageously expensive, if you can even find them. We could build something custom, like we did with our '68 Chevelle, but this time we opted to do a quick and easy home restoration. All you need is some mild dish detergent, a Scotch-Brite pad, and a can of Dupli-Color HVP106 flat black Vinyl & Fabric Coating.

WHERE THE MONEY WENT
Summit Part Number: Description: Summit price:
SCA-80-1000-51L Driver-side seat $301.50
SCA-80-1000-51R Passenger seat $301.50
SCA-81140 Driver-side seat bracket $ 66.95
SCA-81141 Passenger-side seat bracket $ 66.95
Total: $736.90

Quick Trick: Aluminum Graining
Custom-fabricated aluminum pieces can be built in a variety of ways, but how you choose to finish them off can make or break the look. Aluminum doesn't rust, but it does oxidize white. Some more expensive options include anodizing, painting, or powdercoating, but the least expensive (yet one of the nicest) options is graining. This amounts to using an abrasive pad like Scotch-Brite in a uniform direction. The finish will be a soft satin grained look, and will last a few months before oxidizing white again. The trick is to grain your aluminum with a light spritz of WD40. This will shield the aluminum from oxidizing, and give your work a deeper, shinier grain that lasts a long time.

Quick Trick: Powdercoating
If you're looking for a finish that's more durable than paint, such as exterior trim items that are exposed to high-speed debris, or underhood items that see excessive temperature, powdercoating may be a better option than painting or spray bombing. Many of the trim pieces on Project Talladega were powdercoated instead of painted. Most of our window trim, headlight bezels, grille pieces, and marker light surrounds were powdercoated by Extreme Powder Coating in Mesa, AZ (480-832-9034). They matched our satin black paint so closely that it's impossible to tell the difference between powdercoat and paint. The same goes for our Bassett steel wheels, which were powdercoated to a perfect match with our vinyl graphics.