We've toggled the hooligan switch, and it is good. In an instant, this simple yet enormously entertaining device uncorks an electrically actuated butterfly valve mounted on a standard exhaust cutout. By bypassing the mufflers, man and machine are transformed from irresponsible social miscreants to really loud and irresponsible social miscreants. Install one of these babies in your exhaust system, and you'll be pulling up to every moron on their cell phone and rapping the throttle just for kicks. Like, can you hear me now? Sissies in hybrids and poseurs thumpin' gangsta rap are fine alternative targets as well. How many friendly hand gestures can you provoke on your commute?
Such juvenile antics aside, the real reason why hot rodders engage in the venerable practice of dumping their exhaust in front of their mufflers is to pick up a few extra ponies at the track. It works so well, GM employs a similar technique in the new Corvette Z06. Cutouts have been around for decades, but crawling under your car to manually uncap them can be a bit tedious. In recent years, several aftermarket manufacturers have hit the market with electric valves that allow for instant backpressure-less gratification. Unfortunately, they've become infamous for poor exhaust sealing and unreliable motors prone to premature burnout.
To address these issues, the latest evolution in electric cutouts is now available from Race Ready Performance (RRP). Features include an extra-thick body, a butterfly valve, and a shaft to improve durability and reduce warping. The valve itself has dual integrated O-rings to eliminate leaks, and RRP includes a weather-resistant wiring pack with every cutout kit. "We've put a lot of effort into improving the deficiencies associated with electric cutouts," explains Steve Garsky. "RRP is so confident in our products that we back them all with a lifetime warranty." The best part is that installing an electric cutout is stupid easy. We observed as RRP's technicians installed a dual electric cutout kit on a '68 Ford truck powered by a stout 347 small-block, and the job took less than 45 minutes from start to finish. While the truck's dual 2.5-inch Flowmaster exhaust system is more than up to the task in terms of flow, the bypass valves certainly add to the fun quotient.
 Using an electric saw, Steve...  Using an electric saw, Steve Garsky of RRP cut a section of the intermediate pipe equal in length to the cutout/Y-pipe assembly itself. Any area between the header collector (or behind the catalytic converter) and the mufflers will work fine. The farther rearward the cutout is positioned, the less resonance there will be inside the cabin. This particular install was on a truck, but the process is universal and applies to virtually all vehicle platforms. |  Since the exhaust pipes and...  Since the exhaust pipes and muffler dangle freely on their hangers after the cut is made, the cutout was first tacked into position with an MIG welder. After verifying proper exhaust alignment, the welds were completed. The positioning of the bypass outlet in relation to the chassis doesn't affect performance, but can impact ground clearance. |  RRP offers an optional $30...  RRP offers an optional $30 turndown that bolts to the electric valve assembly. This reduces resonance and prevents soot from building up on the bottom of the floorboard. |
 The electric bypass valve...  The electric bypass valve is held in place with three bolts, and features slotted boltholes that allow rotating the entire assembly on the cutout flange for easier positioning. Orienting the electric motor close to the framerails simplifies wire routing by keeping it away from the hot exhaust pipe. |  Heavy duty 16-gauge wiring...  Heavy duty 16-gauge wiring is used throughout the harness, which also includes an integrated 3-amp quick-blow fuse. All connections are plug-and-play and weather resistant. |  Steve recommends routing the...  Steve recommends routing the wiring along the framerail, over the K-member, and up the firewall. The wire can either be anchored along the framerail, or zip-tied to the brake lines. |
 Getting juice to the electric...  Getting juice to the electric valve is a simple two-wire hookup. RRP uses weather-resistant plug-and-play connectors for reliability and ease of installation. |  After fishing the wiring through...  After fishing the wiring through an existing hole in the firewall, Steve connected the hot wire to a switched ignition source using a wire tap. The only other necessary connection was hooking up the ground wire. No splicing or soldering was required. |  With the installation complete,...  With the installation complete, the electric valve is actuated by simply toggling this slick rocker switch that's included in the kit. Since the subject of our installation featured a dual exhaust system, the entire procedure was repeated on the other side of the truck. |
 RRP's cutout kits are available...  RRP's cutout kits are available in diameters ranging from 2.5 to 5 inches, with prices starting at $230. The kit includes a billet electric valve, a complete wiring harness and switch, and the cutout/Y-pipe assembly. |  To ensure reliability and...  To ensure reliability and leak-free operation, RRP's electric cutout valve has been beefed up in several critical locations. The housing is machined from 6061-T6 billet aluminum, and the butterfly is constructed out of 303 stainless steel for strength and corrosion resistance. Other highlights include a rugged .438-inch butterfly shaft, bullnosed butterfly seals, a high-temp O-ring, and a heat-resistant motor. |  Included in each kit is a...  Included in each kit is a cutout/Y-pipe assembly, which is available in aluminized or polished steel. For those who are averse to visiting a muffler shop, RRP offers slip-fit cutouts that can be attached with a band clamp. |