1970 Ford Fairlane 500 - Battery Relocation - Shifting Weight

We opted to use Moroso's remote disconnect kit (PN 74105, $47.95), which allows us to mount the master disconnect switch inside the trunk and still pass tech. We chose to run the pushrod through the reflector section of the rear taillight by carefully taping off, then drilling, an appropriately sized hole through the lens and housing.

The remote disconnect kit includes everything you need to adapt the master disconnect switch to work. We removed the switch handle and replaced it with the supplied arm. The kit also includes a mounting bracket that can be welded to the support structure of your choosing.

Next we fabricated a bracket to hold the master disconnect switch, which was welded to the trunk floor. The metal battery mount had provisions to bolt to the floor, but we opted to weld it in place.

Then we drilled a hole in the trunk floor to run the positive battery cable to the engine bay, and secured the cable to the frame using the supplied rubberized D-clamps. Self-tapping screws are not included, so get them before starting. Also, make sure you use grommets whenever you pass though sheetmetal. The cable gets secured to the positive side of the starter solenoid.

From the master disconnect switch, we ran a 10-gauge wire to the alternator. This way, flipping the switch will still shut the car off per NHRA regs; the memory-retention module is wired between the two main posts of the master diconnect switch.

Per NHRA rules, your shut-off switch will need to be clearly marked. If you choose to mount the rotary switch to a rear panel, you can use the stickers supplied by Moroso. Our push/pull disconnect switch didn't come with one, so we had a magnetic one made for $5 at a local sign store. Before we hit the track, we'll need to install sheetmetal behind the backseat and under the package tray (per NHRA rules), since we opted not to use the box. Total install time was about four hours, and cost was $448.35.