Break-In Notes:
* No harsh acceleration during break-in period
* Drive 50 miles then let it cool off for 30 minutes
* Repeat for the first 250 miles
* Change the gear oil at 1,000 miles
* Use 80- to 90-weight non-synthetic gear oil
* Add one bottle of posi additive, if needed
Stuff You'll Need:
* Jackstands and a jack or lift
* Tranny jack or a few extra friends
* Basic wrench and ratchet set
* Lug wrench
* C-clamps
* Double flare kit and tubing cutter
* 80 weight gear oil
* Penetrating oil (Royal Purple Maxfilm)
* Welder for brake fittings
* Solvent to clean housing
* Two cans of spray paint
(Dupli-Color, PN DA 1603)
* Brake line tubing and fittings
* New brake hoses
* Two male 3-AN x 3/8-inch fittings
* Three U-clips
* Mounting brackets for brake lines
* T-fitting for brake lines
* Lokar e-brake cable kit
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| Where The Money Went | |
| '70 Ford Fairlane 500: | $8,100.00 |
| Vintage Wheel Works V60 wheels: | $1,179.00 |
| Nitto 555 tires: | $594.00 |
| Mount & balance tires: | $100.00 |
| Used '70 Torino GT hood: | $250.00 |
| Paint & body labor: | $250.00 |
| Materials to paint rear valance: | $15.00 |
| New vinyl top: | $119.95 |
| Labor for top install: | $250.00 |
| Front spoiler: | $67.96 |
| Line lock with lines: | $96.90 |
| SSBC front disc brakes (PN A133-2): | $999.95 |
| Rotor upgrade: | $150.00 |
| Just Suspension "The Works" kit: | $1,850.00 |
| Credit for unused KYB shocks: | -($152.00) |
| Alston double-adjustable VariShocks: | $956.00 |
| Alignment: | $69.95 |
| Strange 9-inch rearend with brakes: | $2,423.72 |
| Lokar e-brake cable kit: | $144.95 |
| Miscellaneous hardware for rearend install: | $86.44 |
| Aluminum 3.5-inch driveshaft and parts: | $470.00 |
| Parts & labor total: | $18,021.82 |
| Sold parts from Fairlane (tires, wheels & hood): | -($338.56) |
| Total in project: | $17,596.82 |
 Next, you'll want to support...  Next, you'll want to support the rearend by using a couple of pole jacks or a tranny jack. If you're doing this in your driveway, a floor jack will work. Just make sure you have the car properly supported. Then, unbolt the back of the leaf springs so that the old rearend can be lowered out of the way. |
 With the new rear jacked into...  With the new rear jacked into place, you'll be able to swing the leaf springs back up to their shackles and bolt them in place. Keep in mind that you'll likely need larger U-bolts, since the axletube on the stocker is smaller. We were lucky that Just Suspension included the ones we need-ed with the suspension rebuild kit installed last month ("Suspension in A Box," Jun. '07). Since the ends of the new U-bolts are farther apart, you'll need to elongate the holes in the factory shock plates. It's easy to do, and cheaper than buying new plates. |
 The unit ships dry, so pour...  The unit ships dry, so pour in some dino-based 80- to 90- weight gear oil. It's easier to transfer oil into a small bottle and pour it in through the fill hole than to try to fit a larger bottle into the small space. You could also do this before installing the rear. |
 Don't forget that you'll need...  Don't forget that you'll need some hardware for the brakes. We went to our local fitting store, G&J Aircraft in Ontario, California, and picked up these parts. The two brake lines are 10 inches long, and the caliper fittings are 3-AN x 3/8-inch. The easiest way to make sure you get the right parts is to take the calipers and the old brake lines to the shop. Using Teflon-lined braided hose only costs a little more than rubber, and will never wear out. Total cost for all this stuff was $62.58. |