It's natural when building a hot rod to want to tackle the engine first. After all, the main question you'll hear is, "What's it got under the hood?" Nonetheless, stuffing a big mill into a car with a weak drivetrain is just asking for a trip home on a flatbed. Even if it's not as much fun, the best way to build a fast car is to tackle all the systems that'll need to hold up to the eventual boost in power. This way, you can still enjoy cruising your project while you build the new engine. In addition, you won't have to worry about exploding your tranny, grenading your rearend, or turning your driveshaft into something resembling a DNA double helix.
This is how we're tackling the '70 Ford Fairlane 500 project. Even though we are itching to up the anemic power on the big blue Ford, we decided to save the engine for last, and tackle the less glamorous systems that are critical for long-term durability. With the brakes and suspension addressed (see "Brakes of Wrath," and "Suspension in A Box," Jun. '07), it's time to work on the driveline; in our case, we are starting at the back and working our way forward. The stock 8-inch rear in the Fairlane is strong enough to handle the current power from the stock 302, but it would quickly turn into a jigsaw puzzle if subjected to the 500-plus horsepower we eventually plan to stuff under the hood. What we needed was a new rear that could easily tolerate the torment we're going to inflict upon it. Since our ride wears the Blue Oval, the choice was easy: a Ford 9-inch.
We called Strange Engineering and were informed that we'd be its first '70 Fairlane customer. We were given instructions as to which measurements to take, and soon our crate rearend was in the production queue. When the new rear arrived, we measured it against the stocker and found that it was within 1/4 inch. Having Strange do the final assembly costs a little more than ordering a box of loose parts, but it's cheaper than having your local guy do it, easier than doing it yourself, and you will know it's done right.
The best part about buying...
The best part about buying a Strange Engineering crate rearend is that it comes completely assembled and ready to be installed. No jerking around with shims, backlash, or bearings. This unit costs $2,038.72 (minus brakes), plus shipping.
One nice feature you can get...
One nice feature you can get on a Strange unit is this handy fill cap. Combined with the lower drain plug, it makes changing fluid a painless operation. The housing-with the bungs, late big Ford ends, and 3-inch bore-works out to $439.45. Using the Ford housing ends means there's a huge array of brake kits that will bolt up.
We opted for the S-series...
We opted for the S-series 9-inch nodular case. Inside resides a Strange Engineering posi unit and 3.70 gears. This is the heart of the rear, and makes up the lion's share of the cost at $1,189.65. Since our C4 trans doesn't have Overdrive, we felt the gear selection was a good balance between performance and street manners.
To vent the rear, Strange...
To vent the rear, Strange uses this sintered-bronze vent. If you want to run something more elaborate, unscrew it and insert the vent system of your choice.
When you replace your rear,...
When you replace your rear, it's a great time to do a rear brake upgrade. We also wanted to run the common late big Ford housing ends. Strange offers this complete disc brake package for $385. (In case you're curious, they're late-model Ford rear brakes similar to a mid-'90s Ford Explorer.) Make sure you have access holes drilled in your axle facings. It will cost $15.40, but it's necessary if you want to easily service your rear brakes.
To make the new emergency...
To make the new emergency brake system work, you'll need this cable kit from Lokar (PN EC-81FU, $144.95). It comes with the cables and enough hardware to tie into most factory e-brake systems.
The assembly comes unpainted,...
The assembly comes unpainted, and if left this way it will gain that popular rat-rod patina known as rust. We build nice stuff here, so we wiped the unit clean with some lacquer thinner and shot it with a can of Duplicolor semi-gloss black paint (PN DA 1603, $5.99).
Before the new rear can go...
Before the new rear can go in, the old one needs to take a hike. First, unbolt the shock plates from each side so that the rear is free of, but supported by, the leaf springs. This is also a good time to disconnect the e-brake cables, brake lines and, in our case, the factory vent tube from the rearend housing.