GM's 1964-1972 mid-size A-body is arguably the most prolific musclecar ever built. Its various forms include, but are not limited to, Chevelle, Malibu, Skylark, Cutlass, Lemans, Tempest, 442, and GTO. Literally millions were built in a nine-year period, and many of them, like our '68 Malibu, are still kicking around. If you are one of the lucky few to have bought a completely restored example, congratulations-you know how operate a checkbook. The rest of us have to deal with components and mechanical systems that are in some cases topping 43 years old. Suspensions, in particular, are problematic in that their wear is not always apparent from a cursory visual inspection.Such was the case when we bought our '68. What looked and felt OK in a quick sneak-peak and a slow test drive before we handed over the cash, turned out to be a bad gig. We want to get our Chevelle project car into the 11s at the drags, but that will have to wait while we perform some serious remedial action. This thing was handling horribly, jinking and juking randomly over the smallest ruts and seams. In a nutshell, it could drive neither straight nor safely at 60 mph on the interstate, so we were not about to stuff over 600 hp under the hood and run 120 mph at the drags.

We needed a fix, we needed it fast, and we did not want to pay a fortune for it. What we found was Classic Performance Products (CPP), and their reasonably-priced line of quality A-body suspension components and rebuild parts. We opted for CPP's Totally Tubular control arm kit, a larger 1 1/8-inch diameter front sway bar kit, front KYB shocks, and stiffer big-block lowering springs. Once we got the Chevelle on the lift, we were in for a big surprise-we found out the steering linkage was completely shot. Since CPP also offers steering components, we replaced those as well, bringing our total parts bill to $1,229 (see complete breakdown in the sidebar). The end result is that we not only fixed the problem we had, but we made our Chevelle handle much better than it ever did when it was new. (We can only imagine how it will feel when we tackle the rear suspension.)

We are now one step closer to hitting the track in mind-bending fury. Soon, we will be replacing the glass 8.2-inch 10-bolt rear with a 9-inch Crate rearend from Currie. After that, we will be screwing together a 468-inch solid roller big-block that will make at least 600 hp on pump gas. Everything in between, including the cooling system, transmission, fuel system, and rear suspension will have to be dealt with as well, so let's get on with it!

Tools You'll Need
* hammer
* 3/8-inch ratchet
* 3/8-inch articulated swivel-head ratchet (big-blocks only)
* 1/2, 5/8, 7/16, 9/16, 3/4, 7/8 sockets
* 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 7/8 wrenches
* 3/8-inch Allen driver
* cutting dikes
* high-speed cut-off wheel
* jack stands and floor jack (or a lift and a pole jack)
* large pry bar
* Snap-On shock socket, #A139 (recommended)