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1968 Dodge Dart - Front-End Facelift
How We Replaced A Fender, Grille, And Bumper In One Day, Because We Didn't Know Any Better.
March, 2007
By Steve Dulcich
When I bought my '68 Dart, it didn't really have a purpose. Not that I needed another Mopar project, but I'd been on the lookout for a '68 Dart, and this one was local, and really cheap. It made sense to pick it up and put it in stock. When questioned, the seller confided that it might be able to make the 20-block drive across Burbank to my local digs, but expressed concern that it was at my own risk. That drive across town revealed a slipping tranny, noisy power steering, no wipers (it was raining), metal-on-metal at the right rear drum, and rapidly escalating coolant temperature-but to me, that slant six sounded beautiful, and ran as smoothly as anything new from Daimler Chrysler. Yep, any real car guy could determine that there was an unexpected cache of utility here. The next weekend, a quart of Trans X and two quarts of ATF fixed the tranny, while a quart of ATF and a splash of DOT 3 brake fluid quenched the power steering and stopped the leak. A pair of shoes and a drum off another junker had the brakes handled. A new 'stat, water pump, and a custom three-row 22-inch radiator salvaged from another project car, along with a huge flex fan, completely solved the overheating. With that, you can pretty much say that, mechanically, we had this old Dart in fully functional condition. We were so satisfied that we even changed the oil, adding a fill of Mobile 1 to the crankcase, and treated the 2.76:1-ratio 7.25-inch rear to fresh synthetic. In the ultimate gesture of confidence, the old Dart was registered and insured, and a set of plates was bolted on. In the last few months, we have enjoyed 4,000 trouble-free miles in the Dart. [What's up with the "we" stuff? You got a hamster in your pocket, Steve?-ed] Not bad when you consider the basic, low-cost approach to the buildup described above. The Dart originally came through with the stunning factory combination of black paint with a red interior, but the coachwork was defiantly showing its age. Such a shame really, since if it wasn't for the smashed-up and beat body, demolished engine bay, and shredded interior, the car could almost rate as a survivor. The worst quadrant, at least from appearance's sake, was dead center and head-on. Definite damage was apparent, affecting the grillework, bumper, and fenders. Even though the Dart was immensely satisfying the way it was, it seemed only right to try and improve on some of the most offensive body damage. We weren't working to show standards here, but to make this sweet street driver considerably nicer. Eventually, we'll fix everything and lay down some real show-quality paint.  |  Up front, the Dart wore its...  Up front, the Dart wore its damaged sheetmetal and brightwork surprisingly well. At times, the body damage added the desirable menacing look of irreverence, but then sometimes it just plain looked bad. |  The front bumper had a definitely...  The front bumper had a definitely tortured appearance, and no one makes a reproduction for these cars. Hunkins figured I'd be in for nearly a grand to get it straightened and chromed, but I found a local tire shop that promised it would be as good as new for $180. That was motivation enough to lie down in the street and start unbolting it-a single 9/16-inch wrench is all it takes. |  Although both front fenders...  Although both front fenders showed damage, the left front was uglier with damage extending to the grille and causing a drooping headlamp. The heavy hit at the leading edge is hard to fix, since the fender is welded double-wall up front. While fixing this is do-able with enough time, the better approach here is to replace it. |  How lucky is that? We found...  How lucky is that? We found a '68 Dart left front fender in a stash of vintage body parts, and it even had the correct body side molding. When we get into a full resto of the car we'll probably lose the body side molding; for continuity, at this stage we want to keep it. |  The only thing that could...  The only thing that could have been better than finding an exactly right 40-year-old fender in perfect condition was if it had been black. As it was, the fender was tan, and we decided to simply primer it until the rest of the Dart's bodywork is completed for a full paint job. First, the fender was cleaned, and then it was D/A sanded with P320-grit. |  To color the fender and provide...  To color the fender and provide good protection from the elements in lieu of paint, it was shot with PPG DP-90 epoxy primer. The weather resistance of this product is better than average for primer, and the flat black color will look reasonably acceptable on this black car. |  Mopar fenders are usually...  Mopar fenders are usually held on by fasteners along the inner fender apron, at the bottom inner rocker behind the wheelwell, at the radiator support, and by a stud below the A-pillar. To get at the A-pillar fastener, it is easiest to start by removing the inner rear splash shield. |  Minimally, the headlamp bezel...  Minimally, the headlamp bezel needs to come off and the center grille partially unbolted to remove the fender. The Dart's grille was pretty mangled, and we intended to replace it, so we removed the whole thing. |  Mopar A-body fenders can be...  Mopar A-body fenders can be removed in a matter of minutes. After the fasteners are all pulled, just swing the front free of the radiator support, and then lift to clear the stud at the A-pillar. |
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