Here you can see where we mounted the 10-micron filter and pressure regulator. We chose to run the regulator before the fuel rail and back near the tank. This means we have a very short return to the tank, which should lead to fewer problems with heat in the fuel. On higher horsepower applications it becomes more important to run the regulator up near the engine and return the fuel back after it goes through the fuel rail. Returning the fuel after it goes through the fuel rails also gives a theoretical improvement to how well the injectors work. The way we did it is similar to how a new Corvette is set up and saved us a ton of plumbing. | 
We decided to add this Barry Grant fuel cooler to the supply line running to the engine. It's mounted about midway through the run on the backside of the rocker panel. This way it's protected and will get great airflow over the fins. | 
Make sure all your fuel fittings are snugged down properly. We did the final install on the fuel rail crossover hose, which is 8-AN. One nice thing about the nickel-stainless finish on these XRP fittings is that it's more durable and harder to scratch than fittings with an anodized finish. |
Here you can see where the fuel enters the driver-side fuel rail. You can also see how close the engine sits to the firewall. Due to how the fuel rails are staggered, it was easier to run to the driver side even though the fuel line ran down the passenger side of the car. Make sure you keep the fuel lines as far from the headers as possible. | 
With the fuel tank dropped in, it was time to bolt in the new battery tray. The billet unit from Detroit Speed & Engineering (DSE) comes with a handy template that makes installation a snap. We drilled the holes per the instructions in the template provided by DSE. | 
The battery hold-down looks great and, more importantly, holds the battery safe and secure. Having the Optima red-top battery means we no longer have to worry about running a vented battery box, and we don't have to worry about damage from battery acid. Plus, it has the cranking amps to easily turn over our LS2. |
We also buttoned up the install of our McLeod Slik Stix shifter. The shifter uses a Belleville washer system to help make the 2-3 shift easier. It also has 60 different offset positions, ranging from 2 inches side-to-side, and up to 4 inches front or back. This meant we could get our shifter right where we wanted it. We cut a hole in the trans tunnel large enough to allow us to pull the shifter for service without dropping the trans. We then fabricated a cover plate. | 
Under the car we installed both of the O2 sensors. The ECU will need these sensors to adjust to changing conditions. The ones needed here are GM PN 12581966. During the installation, be very careful not to touch or damage the tip of the sensor. We then plugged the Speartech harness into the sensors. | 
If you're running a mostly stock engine, you can save a ton of cash by running this item. It's the combination fuel filter and regulator from a C5 Corvette (GM PN 10299146). It's not adjustable, but it's inexpensive and works fine on 400hp Corvettes. You can buy adaptors to use -AN fittings with this at Street & Performance. |
Welcome to the first sizeable problem of our install. For some reason, the transmission crossmember didn't come close to fitting. With the tranny raised up as far as possible, there wasn't room to put in the mount. The trans could go up a bit further, but then the headers would hit the floor. We talked to the designer and couldn't figure out why this happened. The simple solution was to visit Fast Eddie's Racecar Fabrication in Orange, CA, for a little fab work on the crossmember. An inch of clearance was added and all was good. | 
This is the reverse lockout solenoid that lives on the side of the T56. If we had thought of this, we could've used our trusty hammer to "massage" the trans tunnel so it would fit. We didn't, so we simply pulled the part and took it down a bit with a grinder. | 
With the transmission in place, we were able to order our 3.5-inch aluminum driveshaft from Inland Empire Driveline. We happened to be running a Strange 9-inch rear end, so the appropriate U-joints were added. We would tell you the length of our driveshaft, but on a custom deal like this, it may not end up being the same as what you need and that would result in angry mail. |
Now it was time to install the Stewart Warner Maximum Performance 2 5/8-inch gauges. This way we can monitor the vital functions when we fire up the LS2 for the first time. These gauges have the added benefit of having glow-through numbers rather than perimeter lighting for an easy-to-read, modern look. | 
One option you can get with the Stewart Warner stuff is LED lighting. These come in a variety of colors including red, blue, green, and white, and are a snap to install. Simply unplug the standard bulb and plug in the small LED circuit board. Smaller gauges use the two-light board and the larger gauges use the four-light board so your dash lighting is consistent. The circuit board also has built-in surge protection. The "+" symbol on the board aligns with the white wire. | 
Before firing up the LS2, we filled all the fluids. For oil, we went with the same 10w-30 Mobile 1 that came in the LS2 from the factory. Dexcool was added to the radiator along with some Purple Ice from Royal Purple. All the lines were double-checked and the moment was at hand. |