Last month, we got a big start on dropping our new LS2-based drivetrain into the '68 Camaro project called Bad Penny (see "LS2 Transplant, Part 1"). The engine is in, but there's still a lot to do. In many ways, installing a modern engine into vintage tin is a lot like installing your run-of-the-mill small-block, but there are key differences. The LS2 has specific fuel and wiring components, making it more involved than the typical small-block install. However, the aftermarket has been burning the midnight oil developing goodies to make LS swaps much less painless. We plan on showing you many of those time-saving short-cuts right here.
We're not rocket scientists, but in the end, we managed to get it all installed. The key was to plan ahead, and when we came to the inevitable bump in the road, we worked around it rather than to get frustrated. There are also more budget-minded ways to do just about everything if you're willing to put in more sweat equity. Still, it's not an easy or a cheap date, just keep in mind that most guys who have done it have a hard time going back to the old-school stuff!
When it comes to wiring the...
When it comes to wiring the engine, the ease is proportional to how much you're willing to spend. You can pick up a stock factory ECU and harness on eBay and try to rework the wires yourself (and send the computer out for programming), or you can order a custom harness made for your application. We took the second route and ordered this harness from Speartech Fuel Injection. John Spears at Speartech built the harness specifically for our '68 Camaro and even added wiring for the electric water pump. All the plugs are clearly marked, which made wiring the engine one of the easiest parts of the install. Speartech will also rework your factory harness and reprogram your computer. This route is a bit cheaper if you already have a harness and computer.
Wiring was as easy as drilling...
Wiring was as easy as drilling a hole in the trans tunnel and feeding through the wiring. All the wires were just the right length to get where they needed to go. Speartech is also able to build the harness to use the fly-by-wire 90mm throttle body that comes on the LS2. They even sent us the gas pedal that plugs into the ECU. The Speartech harness has all the right connections for the T56 to handle things like the neutral safety, reverse lock-out circuits, and has the fuses and relay for the fuel pump.
Here are the players in our...
Here are the players in our cooling system. From AFCO, we have the new double-pass LS1 radiator, fan control relay, overflow tank, and cap. From Meziere, we're running the re-designed LS2 electric street water pump. These should easily keep our mill running cool.
Hose clamps never look that...
Hose clamps never look that great, and we didn't want some blingy billet deal. These thermo-plastic PowerGrip clamps are from Gates (www.gates.com) and are pretty slick. We bought the correct sizes, in our case it was PN 32941 (1.5 to 1.75 inches) for the upper hose and 32948 (1.75 to 2 inches) for the lower hose on the engine side. The clamps slip over the end of the hose and then shrink when warmed with a heat gun. The advantage is that equal pressure is applied to all sides of the hose. When the engine gets to operating temperature, they even snug up a bit more. This technology has been around for years and has been proven in OEM applications. The only downside is that you have to cut them off to remove them and then buy new ones, but they only cost a couple bucks each.
Here are the hoses installed...
Here are the hoses installed with the Powergrip clamps. We found them at our local NAPA outlet and they are almost a dead-on fit for this application. The part number for the upper hose is 8301 and the number for the lower hose is 9038. We used a little paint thinner to remove the writing from the Gates clamps, which makes for a clean look.
The old fuel tank on Penny...
The old fuel tank on Penny was a pro-street style 16-gallon plastic deal. It used foam in the bottom to help baffle gas movement. It's great for drag racing and cruising, but not so good for handling or for an EFI application. You can also see the old school battery box which contained a standard wet-cell battery.
The old tank was pulled out...
The old tank was pulled out and sent to Rick's Hot Rod Shop so it could be used as a template for a new stainless tank. Rick's can also make a stainless replacement bolt-in tank that fits just like your OEM one.
Here's our new fuel system....
Here's our new fuel system. The tank capacity was increased to 20 gallons by Rick's and features an internal Aeromotive fuel pump. Cheap fittings can really hurt the flow of fuel, so we went with XRP fittings and braided hoses. We will run 8-AN hose to the engine with an 6-AN return line to the tank. We are also running a 10-micron post filter and an Aeromotive adjustable regulator.
Inside the tank you can see...
Inside the tank you can see the 100-micron pre-filter and the A1000 Aeromotive pump. The access port in the top of the tank will make servicing the parts an easy deal.