Engine swaps have been a staple of hot rodding ever since the second car was built. The central concept is to take the baddest engine you can build and stuff it into the lightest car possible. In more recent times, an added impetus of improved drivability and better fuel economy has also become part of the swap picture. If you're a Chevy guy, the General's line of Gen III engines, the LS2 in particular, is right in the crosshairs: In the last year, we've seen more LS engine transplants than big-blocks, so it's a hot topic.
For every engine transplant, there is a recipient car, and it doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out that First Generation Camaros and Firebirds are at the top of the list. I guess you could say the marriage between the LS2 and the early Camaro is predestined in the stars. The compact, powerful, fuel-efficient and arguably more attractive LS2 fits into the '67-69 F-body engine room with acres to spare, but all is not perfect in LS2 swap-land.
Of paramount concern to many novices is the radical departure from traditional small-block design. Accessory drive layout, exhaust routing, PCM wiring, cooling, ignition, transmission size, driveshaft fitment, interference with suspension components and other niggling details can be the difference between forging ahead with your driveway dream, and throwing the whole idea onto the scrapheap of stillborn ideas.
In the case of our in-house '68 Camaro project car, Bad Penny, there is a major departure from what could be considered a "traditional" LS swap: We elected to use 21st Century's front subframe, which has improved steering and suspension geometry over the stock '67-69 subframe. This brings into play some added homework because we were locked into 21st Century's proprietary design long-tube headers and rack-and-pinion steering gear. We are clearly out of "bolt-on" territory and into the land of custom fabrication, so think of this story more in broad strokes rather than a precise step-by-step instruction manual.
Make no mistake, this is no easy "bolt-on" deal. You'll need help, and we're here to give it to you. In some cases, you'll need the input and occasional miracle part to get the job done, and we'll tell you where to go for that too. Hang on as we take you through the installation of our 572hp LS2 (see the build-up, "Power Play," in the Nov. 2006 issue) into project Bad Penny. We'll finish this next month, so keep an eye out for it on the newsstand.
Our 572hp Bullet
In our November '06 issue, the LS2 put out a corrected 572 hp and 505 lb-ft of twist on the Westech engine dyno. We had a few bucks to burn, so we decided to dress it up. The Katech valve covers (PN KAT-A2833) and coil-relocation brackets (PN KAT-A4667) are a visual improvement over the factory units. They also allow for quicker removal of the valve covers. The intake is the same FAST unit from the engine story except we sanded it smooth, shot it silver, and added FAST fuel rails (PN 54023) with XRP AN fittings. The water pump is an electric unit from Meziere Enterprises (PN WP319N) that will free up a few ponies. We went with an affordable Fourth Gen Camaro accessory drive with a Katech solid tensioner (PN KAT-A4425-BLK) instead of the problematic spring-loaded factory version.
Rounding out our transmission parts was a T56 kit from American Touring Specialties (ATS). The kit came with a hydraulic throw-out bearing, clutch master and a mounting plate. | 
The ATS clutch master and mounting plate were installed when we plugged the subframe into Penny (see "Framed," Dec. 2006). | 
We're supposed to be perfect and not screw up, but we missed the memo. The T56 on the right is the one we ordered, but it's not the right one for our project since it's designed for an old school small-block Chevy. |
Besides obvious differences in the two transmissions, the F-body version of the T56 includes a factory aluminum bellhousing. | 
A plasma cutter made quick work of the interfering area. You can use anything to make the cut, but this is fastest. | 
To the flywheel, we bolted the McLeod clutch assembly. We kept it simple by using a single disc unit rather than hassling with a twin-disc clutch. |
With the McLeod bellhousing bolted to the LS2, we found that the rim of the bell interfered with the bleeder valve for the hydraulics. | 
We put the backing plate in place and bolted on the McLeod billet aluminum flywheel using a set of ARP bolts (PN 330-2802) that were Loctite'd and torqued in sequence. | 
The T56 ships empty, so this was a great time to add some Royal Purple Max ATF fluid. Pouring it in through the shifter opening is easier than in the fill hole. |
The LS2 shipped to us with a C6 Corvette oil pan. This is a great pan, but the front is too tall to clear our steering rack. | 
With the engine and transmission bolted together, it was time to attach the chain and swing the unit in place with a hoist. | 
We could've left the plastic sensor in place to plug the oil pan hole, but that seemed like a waste. The hole is 20mm and we had a hard time finding a plug in that size. |
Here, Tim Lee, of Don Lee Auto helps guide the drivetrain into place. This was our first stab and we learned two things: first, the low-slung F-body alternator wasn't going to clear the rack. | 
After pulling off the intake and alternator, we again swung the LS2 into place and this time it lined up perfectly. | 
You might've noticed we're running an F-body power steering pump that was massaged by Turn One Steering Systems. What we needed was a 6-AN-out fitting so we could plumb it to the high-pressure side of the rack. |
This is what we came up with. The large bend was cut off and the nut was drilled out to accept an 1/8-inch pipe-to-4-AN 90 fitting. | 
The red arrow points to where the Powermaster alternator hit the upper line on the power steering rack. | 
Here's the steering rack mod installed with a high-pressure Teflon-lined hose. |
Every LS-series engine has a crossover tube at the front between the heads. On a factory ride this is plumbed to the radiator. | 
Some background: Since we opted to base our LS2 swap on 21st Century's front subframe, the standard LS-swap header (Hooker's PN 2288HKR for LS in a '67-69 F-body) won't work. | 
With header in hand, we went to Fast Eddie's Racecar Fabrication in Orange, CA, for a rework. In the second picture, you can see the change. |
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After $200 for fabbing and recoating, you can't even tell we made the change. | 
Before you start an engine swap, it's a good idea to buy your gauges. That way you'll have all the sensors. |
The best place to get oil pressure is just above the oil filter on the oil pan. The fitting on the LS2 pan won't work, but either of these will. | 
For better header clearance, we used a small 45 fitting to angle the Stewart Warner oil-pressure sender away from the header tube. Whether you need to do this will depend on your headers. | 
Here's where we are so far. The LS2 and T56 are installed along with the headers and everything is looking good. |
The typical location for the water temp sensor is at the rear of the passenger-side head. On the far left is the 12mm (1.5 thread pitch) plug that's mounted in the head from the factory. | 
Here's the Stewart Warner sensor in place and ready to go. | |