It wasn't until watching my white '69 Camaro go up in flames during the '93 One Lap of America at Michigan International Speedway that I realized the importance of correctly plumbing a car. Caused by a failed high-pressure fuel line connection, that event showed me that saving a few bucks on a cheaper hose wasn't a smart decision. Fortunately, no one was injured and I learned an important lesson about using the best part for the job.
When I rebuilt the car, I went to my local aircraft supply hose dealer and purchased the "right" stuff. As I walked out the door with my small bag of fittings and a short piece of hose, I was about $100 lighter in the wallet. But, I had literally been playing with fire and needed to fix the problem. The lesson was that AN hose can be very functional, durable, and aesthetically pleasing if installed correctly.
When you first start looking at all the plumbing options, keep in mind the goal of the project in terms of efficiency and restriction. I recommend studying the catalogs for the applications and sizes, as most are very good at recommending usage and offering tips on how to assemble their various products. In some cases, AN fittings and line will be overkill, but I think it's better to be better safe than sorry.
Installing hose, like many hot rodding projects, is time-intensive and will require some finesse. However, once you get the hang of it, the results look outstanding and the parts will perform for years. Part of the reason I enjoy installing AN hose is because the results are immediate. It's also one of the last things that that need to be completed before the car runs.Follow along as we show you how to "make" this stuff for yourself.
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 To get going, determine where...  To get going, determine where the line needs to begin and end and install appropriate adaptors as necessary. EARL'S provides one of the largest selections of adaptor fittings to go from AN to NPT, AN male, AN Female, step-up in size, step-down in size, 90-degree, 45-degree, etc. Remember to consider the adaptor fittings also as an another packaging aid to help get things packaged Once the flow path has been established and the appropriate adaptors have been installed, it is time to mock up the hose ends. |
 EARL'S produces hose ends...  EARL'S produces hose ends in straight, 30-, 45-, 60-, 90-, 120-, 150-, and 180-degreee bends for all their hose sizes. It's very convenient to have a large selection of different angle fittings on hand when plumbing you project. Packaging can become a problem when routing the lines, and being able to change the angle on the fitting solves many problems. |
 Before you cut the hose, wrap...  Before you cut the hose, wrap it tightly with masking or duct tape. This will keep the braiding on the hose from fraying when it's cut. |
 There are many ways to cut...  There are many ways to cut braided hose including using a hacksaw, cold chisel, a hand hammer, large sheers, abrasive cutting wheels, and more. I've tried many different methods and using an abrasive "whiz" wheel like the one you see here works the best for me. It's quick, easy, portable, and effective. |
 Don't forget to use compressed...  Don't forget to use compressed air to blow out the shavings that might be left behind. The only downside to cutting as you just saw is that it can leave residue inside your hose. Many engines have been damaged over this without the owner ever knowing why. Don't be "that guy." |
 After cutting the hose and...  After cutting the hose and removing the tape, insert the hose into the hose end component. Look at both hose end components and determine the correct depth to insert the hose. You want it inserted far enough to seal, but not so far as to prevent the two components from screwing all the way together. |
 Before screwing the two components...  Before screwing the two components together, apply EARL'S assembly lube to the threads of the hose end to prevent the threads from galling. The two hose end components should screw all the way together. Here's a personal assembly tip: I've used the AN aluminum wrenches for years, and when they're new, they don't mar the expensive hose ends... |
 ...The problem is that as...  ...The problem is that as they wear, they leave marks on the hose ends--I prefer Snap-on's stubby wrenches, as the surface inside these wrenches is very smooth and never leaves a mark on the fittings. They're more expensive than AN wrenches, but they'll last a lifetime. |
 Once you have one end component...  Once you have one end component on the AN hose, attach that end to whatever is being plumbed and mock up the length that will be needed. With the one fitting attached, route the line like it'll be when it's final, and install the other fitting without the ferrule. Mark the line where you want to cut it relative to the other fitting. Then remove the line, cut it, and install the other end. |
 When the hose is built, reinstall...  When the hose is built, reinstall it to verify that it fits. Make sure it's not too tight or too lose, and verify your routing. If it's too long, it can be shortened. If you do have to shorten it, I've found that there's a minimum of an inch that needs to be removed due to the fact that the hose is damaged at the end with the fitting from the previous assembly. However, if it's too short, it can't be lengthened and you'll have to start over. I keep all my miss-measured hose assemblies in a box, hoping to use them in the future and install the other end. |
 EARL'S has two basic kinds...  EARL'S has two basic kinds of hose ends: Swivel Seal and Auto-Fit hose ends. The Swivel Seals (pictured bottom) will rotate 360-degrees relative to the hose once the end has been tightened. This allows the end to be "clocked" for proper hose routing. The Auto-Fit hose end is fixed or non-rotating. The Auto-Fit ends are slightly cheaper and shorter so they can help save a little space and money. |